[WIP] 1/700 IJN Chokai Heavy Cruiser [鳥海][重巡洋艦] Part 2

3D printing:

I want to quickly talk about 3D printing, when the build was about 80% completed, i purchased a 3D printer. I got quite distracted on learning all sorts of 3D modeling and how to work the printer itself. And spend a quite a few sleepless nights worrying about the print.
3D printer is such an amazing tool for modellers, for 1/700 ships, it can provide almost everything, given that you spend enough hours in 3D modeling software.
i found that even with this budget printer, i was able to achieve aftermarket level parts.
The biggest issue is layer lines, however they only become significantly visible with a macro lens.

But I really don’t want to give off the wrong impression that 3D printing makes everything easier, from my experience, printing is the easy part, the hard part is measurement, alignment and 3D modelling.
I used Blender3D, i sunk a good 20 hours in learning and tutorials before i started producing actual result, and component like the turret took me at least 2 hour to make. Compare that to making the model which is less than 30minutes.
The benefit really is the long run, i calculated my modelling spending from 2019 and 2020, other than tools and shipping, i spend $800AUD on model kits, but $1000AUD on aftermarkets parts. 3D printer should save quite alot especially these tiny parts consumes resin slowly.

Now continue with the build – The bridge:

I didn’t notice that the edge wasn’t suppose to extend out that far until i checked some references.
I was able to fix this by slowly chiseling and cutting away the extra plastics, it was a dangerous modification, i’m happy it turned out nicely!

I replaced the top director for the 3rd time, this time with 3D printing on my side, and with abit of PE from rainbow model (Rb7026 IJN Fire Control System I), i was finally able to recreate it.

Hangar Structure:

I started with creating a bevel to breakup the thick looking edge. This tool is from Ustar (UA91907), i don’t know what it’s called but it’s a very niche tool, this is the first time in a year i actually used it.
U-Star produces many modelling tools, i feel you get 80% of the tamiya quality, which is very decent, great for budget oriented modellers.

The kit does not have any internal details, but i don’t really blame them as it’s mostly hidden.

I decide to take a jab at creating the support structures with styrenes, normally i would just use PE, but i wanted to practice using styrene more.

I also added some random pieces of styrene around the hangar, it’s not historically accurate at all, but it looks nice

Here i started working on the mast, it’s a pretty simple structure but it’s difficult to align the rods. After careful alignment, i glued them into place, the white styrene platforms were added after i secured the tripod.
I used a hollow tube for the center rod, so at the top i was able to insert a smaller rod, which is sandwiched between a piece of random PE with a hole cut in half, recreating the reel structure.

With the lines attached, the hangar structure is mostly completed, i took a comparison shot.

rails attached, i found the easiest way to attach them is to use gel like CA to secure the end point, then very two or three studs add a little bit of thin CA, then clean the over spill with 1mm chisel.

At this point, i realized the kit was possibly inaccurate

A more detailed imagine of the structure confirmed the mistake, this picture was sent to me by twitter user @Gaku_Oiso, who is an excellent ship modeller with far more experience than me. Visit his blog: http://oisofactory.blog.fc2.com/

My solution was 3D printing, as you can see the first print failed, both fit wise and had a bad case of residue, this was the first day of my 3D printing journey.

Railings attached, range finders added, the hangar structure was complete!

I was very satisfyed with the work i done on the hangar

At this point i was still planning to use the original kit’s turrets, the horizonal structure had no details, i had to add some stretched sprues.

I really dislike fujimi’s PE, it wasn’t a good fit, i had to shave off plastics from the part to make it fit better. I didn’t like how the PE set didn’t include anything for the horizonal structure, so eventually i was committed to print a 3D one.

Signal light tower, it was part of my 3D printing test
I did not sand it before attaching the railings, the layer lines really shows later on, which is bad.

I was pretty amazed i was able to print some fairleads

Originally i did not plan to recreate the vertical lines of the linoleum deck bracing, but i thought i already did so much i might as well.

it was really difficult to cut the strip without damaging existing strip, i had to re glue some of them.
Like i mentioned in part 1, glueing these strips can often have spilled over glue, which had to be cleaned with a 1mm chisel. A painful process but i think it’s worth it.

When I felt i have done most of the stuff on the deck, i begin to attached the railings, attaching the railings last is a simple way to minimize the chance of damaging them while handling the model.

Those 3D printed fairleads and smoke generators attached, after priming, it should look almost as good as aftermarket parts.

For the IJN cross shaped signal light, i was able to attach some 3D printed lanterns on it. Usually this part is just attached as a flat PE, so able to recreate those laterns was nice.

Final stuff added to the hull. Those C= shaped structures are apparently called inner propeller limiter, i drilled small holes and attached a bended a c shaped 0.2mm rod, the 2 extra supports are made from bars of cutted up railing PE.

Results so far:

I decide to take some nice photos of her before painting, i almost wish i could keep it that way! This is one of the most rewarding moments of 1/700 scale modeling, just look at all the work you done and claim the satisfaction!